For those who have managed to not have heard about JK Rowling’s commitment to anti-trans “radical” feminism, resulting in her often being called a TERF (Trans-Exclusionary Radical Feminist), and in circles that may support JK Rowling’s beliefs, you may see the term “gender critical” feminist floating around, I’ll briefly recap and provide links to other outlets that have covered previously. You can jump to this recap first before reading on, whether you need a refresher or don’t know about it at all yet.

There are a lot of concerned customers who expressed similar feelings of disappointment, betrayal, and just general confusion how a brand that claims to support the LGBTQIA+ community would then release this collection. Here is ColourPop’s response to one of the many comments:

Thank you for your comment. It is our continued commitment at ColourPop to always foster a community of acceptance, love, inclusivity and support. This release is our most highly requested (it has been asked for almost weekly by our community!) and as you know, we are here to create magic for you all by listening, and responding to, what our community dreams of. We are also here to support and uplift this community.

Acceptance, inclusivity, and love for all is our biggest priority and that will never change. We are releasing this collection to bring the magic of the Wizarding World to everyone – and like everything we do, it was designed with love, for all. We will always support the LGBTQIA communities through all avenues available to us and will continue to make donations to organizations and charities while remaining committed to providing a platform for LGBTQIA community members via paid partnerships and more. — Source: ColourPop’s Instagram

I am reminded a lot of how MAC x Rodarte’s collection unraveled. MAC initially issued a soft statement and apology due to the initial round of backlash, which then ratcheted up to committing to donate $100K and renaming the products, and then they ended up pulling the entire collection from being released due to continued backlash.

Here, ColourPop has offered what feels like a fluffy bit of nothing that doesn’t truly address the concerns and then manages to use other customers as shields by putting the “blame” of this collection on them for requesting it so highly. Their reply doesn’t even really acknowledge the core issue (the series’ author’s anti-trans activism).

If “Acceptance, inclusivity, and love for all is [their] biggest priority and that will never change,” then this collection doesn’t live up to those values at all. It actively flies in the face of what ColourPop says they stand for. JK Rowling has forever tarnished the world of Harry Potter; as the creator but also someone who financially benefits from the franchise, and is then using her financial means to support ways to push her transphobic views.

ColourPop could have just as readily created a magic and wizard-inspired collection, neither of which are exclusive to Harry Potter, without needing it to be in collaboration with any property or franchise, and more obviously, there are other series that are set in magical worlds out there. ColourPop can say the right thing like, “We will always support the LGBTQIA communities through all avenues available to us,” and then dismiss the many comments (which seemed to outnumber the ones in support of the collection, followed by critical comments garnering 100s of likes) by the LGBTQIA+ community and its allies. You just can’t have it both ways.

I feel like if ColourPop truly wanted to show that they value all of their customers with full support, love, and acceptance, they would not have greenlit this collection in the first place. Some might argue that donating all profits would salvage the disappointing decision, but it is merely a small, saving-face step in light of backlash. The best case that I can see would be donating would-be profits or some explicit number to organizations actively supporting trans people, no longer releasing the collection, and an actual apology acknowledging their failure to live up to self-stated core values.

Similarly, this collection reminded me of the NARS x Guy Bourdin collection, which was a collection that made me deeply uncomfortable and I ended up writing a lengthy commentary on why I decided not to review it but still provided swatches (and dupes). This was also an area where some saw things through more of an artistic lens, and with the Harry Potter fandom, obviously many people have worked through or may still be working through coming to terms with just how much JK Rowling has ruined what was a big part of childhood for many folks.

Whether one can still enjoy the art of a person who has made clear their views or character are at odds with your own values and character is a debate for another time, but at a minimum, we have to acknowledge the flaws of the artist when discussing, engaging, or otherwise supporting in their art. Especially in this instance where the artist/creator wields an extraordinary level of wealth, power, and access to utilizing those resources for harm.

In the spirit of Harry Potter, I say to ColourPop, “We must all face the choice between what is right and what is easy,” because, “It is our choices, ColourPop, that show what we truly are, far more than our abilities.” After all, “It matters not what someone is born, but what they grow to be.”

My Personal Commitment

I will not be reviewing or swatching the ColourPop x Harry Potter collection. I will also donate any commission earned from the use of my code/links on Harry Potter collection items to the Trevor Project.

Update 9/12, 8:15AM PT: As promised, I have donated all commission I’ve earned from sales of the ColourPop x Harry Potter collection to the Trevor Project. From 9/8 to 9/11/2022, commission earned was $2,198.40. I donated this amount and then opted to cover the processing fees associated, which is why the total amount is $2,242.37. Please see below for a screenshot of my receipt after donating online.

I will do another calculation of any commission earned after the close of this month (or any subsequent months, so long as it is being sold) as I expect the bulk of sales have already occurred.

The collection seems to be selling quite slowly, especially for the “most highly requested” collaboration. As it should. Interestingly enough, though, this is more commission than I’d normally see for a collab launch, so I think there were many people trying to offset their purchases by using a code that was going to donate as a few other IG accounts told their followers to use my code!

JK Rowling is Anti-Trans: A Primer

GLAAD’s Accountability Project has an ongoing profile for JK Rowling that keeps track of “anti-LGBTQ rhetoric and discriminatory actions.” Vox published a timeline of JK Rowling’s transphobia, which is a good starting place, followed by a very deep dive into how the Wizarding World has failed to improve on expanding and improving its inclusivity over and over again as more facts have come to light or additional text written.

JK Rowling has a massive Twitter following and routinely engages with critics who have nowhere near the power she wields. There were inklings of the transphobic rhetoric to come, but it really came across in a tweet from December 2019, then followed up by another transphobic tweet in June 2020, which was immediately followed by a long essay that doubled-, tripled-, and quadrupled-downed on being anti-trans. Her essay was rife with anti-trans dog whistles (this is an excellent takedown of the essay). She has since published new novels (outside of the Harry Potter world) that continue to espouse her transphobic views (and the newest one, promoted in August of this year, is apparently ablelist, too).

Major stars from the Harry Potter movie franchise, like Daniel Radcliffe, swiftly spoke out and condemned JK Rowling’s anti-trans tweets. When HBO aired a retrospective to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the first film’s release, JK Rowling was only featured in archived content but did not appear otherwise in this special.

As Vox noted, TERFs “oppose the self-definition of trans people” at its core, and in their worldview, this results in TERFs treating “trans women as predators, trans men as victims of the patriarchy,” and often erasing or mocking non-binary people.

Jay Hulme, who is a transgender performance poet, speaker, and educator, wrote on trans men: “There is another aspect to the way transphobes treat trans men which is altogether more uncomfortable, and that is what I like to call the “butch lesbian fallacy” … There is an idea, in transphobic circles, that trans men are all confused butch lesbians,” and Hulme expands on this further (well-worth reading the entire post), “They speak of trans men as a “loss”, as if they were sexually entitled to us, and as if they have been wronged by us becoming sexually unavailable to them through self awareness, acceptance, and transition … At the heart of all of this is a desire among transphobes to control trans men. They obsess over our surgeries, our ages, and our presentations. The prospect of a trans man exercising his right to bodily autonomy horrifies them.”

The transgender community needs our collective support as the percentages of transgender individuals who have seriously considered suicide in the past year remains high (48% and higher) and have had a lack of access to mental healthcare (when over 71% of transgender women and men experience symptoms of anxiety) are high. When transgender individuals feel supported and affirmed, they have lower rates of attempting suicide. All statistics are from The Trevor Project’s 2022 survey.

Once upon a time, Bite Beauty was a brand that I looked forward to reviewing, and while their line-up was more limited in their offerings, they tended to excel at what they did offer. They were known for their lip products, from lipstick to lip balm to lip pencils. Now, I don’t know what they’re known for, and there are so few readers who seem to enjoy their newer offerings. Their newer product offerings seem to have often alienated previous fans of the brand, while they haven’t seemed to be able to capture a new set of fans to replacement. Bite Beauty announced the discontinuation of their entire range in September 2019, and they had everything cleared out by late November 2019 with the first release launched in January 2020. Let’s take a look at how that’s gone down…

Sales, Sales, Sales

Now, the larger online beauty community that is filled with enthusiasts and less casual beauty fans, so it can’t be the only indicator of a brand’s success or lack thereof, but Bite’s reformulated/newer launches have routinely been on sale for 50% off and seem like they’re being discontinued because they stay on sale.

For example, the Changemaker foundation and powder have been on sale for awhile, and the powder is down to only four shades (from eight originally) at Sephora, which is a tell-tale sign of something being discontinued (it’s like pulling teeth to get a brand to admit to a product discontinuation, I swear!). The foundation still has the majority of shades in stock and any shades that are out of stock haven’t been pulled yet, and the liquid foundation did seem to garner mostly favorable reviews. The better-performing Power Move Creamy Matte Lip Crayons have been marked down to 50% for months and months.

They never previously ran so many sales, and while products occasionally went on sale or 50% off, they were typically when discontinued or limited edition products on their way out. If the products were selling well, it’s hard to see the rationale in offering them at such a steep discount so often or on an ongoing basis.

Timing Issues

After Bite Beauty cleared out their remaining inventory at 75% off, we waited to see how it would all turn out. I know I wasn’t alone being caught off-guard when the first products they launched were complexion in January 2020. (They also launched their Power Move Lip Crayons, which I quite liked, and their Lip Masks, which I didn’t like and lacked lanolin and ended up being less effective for some who had found it to be holy grail previously.)

It made sense for Bite Beauty to eventually expand beyond lip products, but I think it made some scratch their heads a bit as the first release given how famous they were for their Amuse Bouche Lipsticks, Lip Masks, and Lip Pencils in particular. Instead of the relaunch being super excited, it just left some wondering “but what about the lipsticks?” So, I, like many others, waited, and then waited some more, to finally see the grand replacement of Amuse Bouche, which ended up being the Power Move Soft Matte that didn’t launch until July 2021. It was almost two years since they had discontinued Amuse Bouche, and then it wasn’t even a replacement at all!

For some brands, there have been increasing delays and roadblocks due to the impact on supply chains since last March 2020, but Bite’s rebrand was announced in September 2019 and inventory cleared out by end of November 2019, so it doesn’t seem like they should have had any supply chain/launching issues for their initial launches at all.

Formula Flops

They aren’t the only brand that has tweaked or relaunched products to be vegan, and it is becoming more popular to do. First and foremost, Sephora allows you to indicate your preference for vegan products, and there are over 1,000 to choose from. It’s just important for a brand to make sure that a reformulation still lives up to the brand’s reputation, but when Bite Beauty brought back the beloved, much-missed Agave Lip Balm, the reviews came in furious and harsh.

Part of the reason was the removal of lanolin, which is a particularly effective ingredient (but animal-derived, as comes from sheep’s wool) so for some, it was the inclusion of lanolin doing the heavy-lifting and however Bite reformulated didn’t cut it for past fans. Oddly, Bite didn’t see fit to improve the packaging of the lip balm, as people had issues with the end coming undone in the past and still have that issue with the current version. Bite even released a twist-up version, which was reviewed even more poorly (just over 2-stars).

That being said, Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask doesn’t have any animal-derived ingredients, and is a pretty popular product, so it could have found fans but seemed to more of a miss than a hit for many who tried it. Fenty’s Gloss Bomb is also vegan and a staple for many who like hydrating and glossy products. Tower 28 ShineOn Jelly Lip Gloss is also a popular lip product that is vegan.

Their Daycation Whipped Blush was both a product and packaging fail, and like most of what they’ve done in the last couple of years, puzzled me to no end. They had Multisticks that were popular enough (my experience was they didn’t work well on my eyes but were decent as cheek/lip products but they were quite loved by others) in convenient, twist-up sticks. Fenty Cheeks Out Cream Blush is vegan and is a fantastic cream-based formula… so it can be done.

Not So Amused Bouche

Finally, when lipsticks–much requested and begged for–finally relaunched, the formula wasn’t just vegan but offered a totally different feel, texture, wear, and shade range. The replacement formula, Power Move Soft Matte, is thin, somewhat clingy, matte, and heavier on silicones; and frankly, it was one of the worse-performing silicone-type matte formulas I’ve come across. There are high-quality vegan lipstick formulas, like NARS Lipstick, Natasha Denona I Need a Nude Lipstick, and Urban Decay Lipstick that are creamier, more emollient, and closer to the Amuse Bouche formula (there are also several vegan, silicone-like matte formulas).

The Power Move Soft Matte formula went for a very matte (as opposed to luminous cream, which wasn’t everyone’s favorite as some found it higher maintenance), they released significantly less shades that were all in all… your typical, soft and muted neutral shades, when they were known for a more extensive offering that even included navy green and inky green. They even say “our mission is to make clean beauty less…beige” and talk about having “bold, look-at-me-now color.”

The last iteration of the Amuse Bouche Lipstick range had 40ish shades available, while the launch of their “replacement” released 20 shades.  The lack of Lip Pencils remains a mystery, as vegan options already exist from competitors, and it would have made sense for them to launch alongside the lipsticks (or at any point since); for example one of the more popular high-end formulas is Charlotte Tilbury’s Lip Cheat, which has been vegan exists along with Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencils.

There is room for a matte finish from Bite, but all matte and only matte in their return to lipstick–after such a long, long wait–was anticlimactic for those who loved Amuse Bouche. Like if I had wanted a matte lipstick, I wouldn’t care about a return of Amuse Bouche since it had a very creamy finish!

By the by, has anyone else noticed that they’ve kept their Amuse Bouche (or -esque) formula in their Lip Labs? It just seems odd to offer that in-store when they’ve made a big point to be vegan!

Product Ratings Post-Rebrand

• 94% – Power Move Lip Crayons
• 79% – Power Move Hydrating Soft Matte Lipstick
• 58% – Daycation Whipped Blush

Product Ratings Pre-Rebrand

• 94% – Amuse Bouche Lipstick
• 93% – Amuse Bouche Liquified Lipstick
• 90% – The Lip Pencil
• 88% – Crystal Creme Lip Crayon
• 88% – French Press Lip Gloss
• 87% – Creme Lip Gloss
• 85% – Multistick
• 77% – Prismatic Multistick

What’s in Bite Beauty’s future?

I hope we’ll see improvements in 2022 and 2023; they have been largely silent with respect to new product launches since summer 2021 with their matte lipstick launch. It’s possible they had other launches planned that are now facing delays that have become commonplace due to the past two years of disruption to supply chains.  The brand feels like it’s lost their identity, which may be partially due to the rebrand but also due to increased competition in the “clean beauty” (sigh, I loathe that term!) space. Their reputation for high-quality products has also suffered, which can be tough to come back from as people become more hesitant about new launches due to past experiences.

Looking through their social media, a lot of fans are wondering if certain product are being discontinued, often remarking about products being 50% off., but there are no responses from the brand over the last few months when asked, so we can only speculate… but steep discounts are rarely a good sign, and being often or continuously on sale, also a red flag. It can also be a trap for the brand that ultimately results in consumers becoming less likely to pay full price when they know they can wait a month for a discount (this is an issue that I’ve seen occur with Pat McGrath and Urban Decay in the last few years as well).

Have you found any new favorites from Bite’s relaunches? Have you become a bigger fan of the brand or have moved on?

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush  

Bite Beauty Daycation Whipped Blush  

If you find yourself prone to purchasing on impulse or often feel like you purchase products that are well-reviewed, popular, or buzzed about but don’t actually find you love them like you feel you should, this list of tips might help you figure out how to better understand your own preferences and needs and purchasing behavior.

Step 1: Create a Makeup Inventory

Before you even think about purchasing another product, STOP! Let’s work through what you’ve purchased in the past, how that’s worked out (or not worked out), and what the takeaways might be from past purchases.  By figuring out where you’ve gone right and where you’ve gone wrong, you’ll know what areas have room for improvement.

It’s a good idea to have a good recollection of what products you have as this will ensure that you’re using the products you have regularly.  If you get to the point where it’s hard to remember it all, you might want to consider a more formal inventory process, like a spreadsheet, bullet journal, or use Temptalia’s Vanity.  The upside to any digital version is that you can easily find or sort by various parameters (like finding out what eyeshadows you have or what MAC products you have).

If you’ve purchased products and returned or otherwise removed them from your stash and you can remember them, consider keeping an additional tab on a spreadsheet or use our Archive functionality in the Vanity (for products you have tried but no longer have).  Knowing what didn’t work can be just as useful in building up self-knowledge as knowing what has worked well!

If you’ve destashed a dozen liquid lipsticks and kept one, maybe liquid lipsticks aren’t really your thing so you can mentally note to temper excitement in the future if you see a color that catches your eye but comes in a liquid lipstick formula.

If you’re setting up your own spreadsheet or journal, here are some characteristics you might want to include:

• Brand + Shade
• Type of Formula (e.g. Lipstick)
  • If a type has enough variety in formulas, you may want to include additional information like loose vs. pressed or liquid vs. cream.
• Color
  • Depending on how many products you have and how you think about color (or how you decide what to use), additional parameters like undertone and finish may be useful.
• Price
  • You might put the price you paid if you want to keep track of spending or the retail price at the time you purchased.
• Photos/Swatches
  • If you’re feeling particularly industrious, you could include your own photos/swatches of the products you own!

Step 2: How to Declutter Your Makeup Collection

It’s entirely possible that you’ve already done so or have managed to make fantastic purchases and have nothing you want to part with, and if that’s the case, congratulations, and you can skip ahead!  For those who have felt like they’ve just accumulated a little too much or haven’t been as discerning as they’d like, now that you know what you have, it’s a good time to work through what you have with a more mindful eye.

Let me introduce you to: makeup decluttering or makeup destashing.  What is decluttering? It’s removing products that you no longer use from your makeup collection — clutter.  They’re products taking up space, that might create noise and make other products harder to find/see, and are no longer, rarely, or begrudgingly used.

I’ve touched on some of my recommendations and advice on fine-tuning the products you own previously when I wrote about how to organize your makeup collection, so you may find some of the tips below familiar.

If and when the amount of makeup you own starts to give you negative feelings or reactions, that’s when it’s time to reassess what you have, why, and whether it’s time to let it go.  If you love everything you have, and there’s no outside reason to downsize, there’s nothing wrong with having more products.  It’s not a competition of who has the most or who can get by with the least.

It’s about getting to a size that you find manageable, whatever that means for you; it doesn’t have to be manageable for someone else, just you.

First, these are the five questions I think are important to ask about products I’m trying to decide whether to keep or declutter…

1. Does this product work well for how I want to use it?
2. When was the last time I used this?
3. Did I like it last time I used it?
4. Do I have other products that are similar to it (whether in color or function) that I use more often and/or prefer to it?
5. Do I see myself using it again?

What are the obvious things to declutter?

The easiest products to let go are the ones that are expired, whether you follow strict use-by dates (on most labels) or if you go by smell/texture/performance tests.  If there are particular products that are sentimental to you (and that’s why you’ve been keeping them long past the expiration date!), go through your memories and evaluate if keeping the product adds to that memory or if you really hold the memory in yourself already.

Consider separating these types of products out and finding a way to display and honor them, if they are so sentimental, instead of keeping them in a box or drawer that you forget about.

The products that worked terribly for you should be the next easiest to say ta-ta to. These are the ones that you’ve tried, hated, and shoved in the back of the drawer and never reached for again.  These are products that you feel look bad on you (wrong color, one star!), wore poorly, were difficult to work with, etc.

If there are products that did not work for you and you cannot let go, then set them aside and make a point to use them again, then reassess if it’s really adding usability and/or joy to what you have.

What else should you declutter?

Based on what I’ve seen readers and others in the community speak about, and what I’ve personally experienced as I’ve become more and more discerning about what I keep myself, these are the types of products that can make you waffle a little…

Expensive flops.  The money’s spent.  Keeping a product you don’t like and don’t use just takes up space and doesn’t pay you rent. You aren’t getting your money back by keeping it.

So-so products.  If it’s so-so but you don’t use it, it’s likely because you don’t like it much on yourself, you rarely have reason to use it (e.g. maybe it’s the type of color you only like for special occasions, which leads me to my next point…), or have a better-performing product that is comparable in purpose (color, finish, function).

Unicorns.  These are going to be products that you just have the one of, maybe for you it’s a super, glittery highlighter.  The question is whether you use it, enjoy it, and does serve a purpose in your collection. There might be a reason why you only have one, and it might be because you don’t really enjoy that type of product but felt compelled to give a chance for a myriad of potential of reasons.

But limited edition.  Use it or lose it. What good is that gorgeous limited edition that you love every time you wear it but only allow yourself to wear very occasionally for fear of running out of it? How many products you do you actually finish? What is the real likelihood that you’ll finish? Just how amazing and unique and utterly special is this one limited edition item that even if you used it regularly and finished it that you’d be destroyed because it was no more? There’s always something new and shiny right around the corner in beauty, and our tastes and preferences change over time – you might be sick of that shade after using it ’til the bitter end!

What if I have trouble decluttering?

There are some common excuses I’ve come across for why a product that seems like it doesn’t have a good purpose for someone is otherwise kept (and rarely or never used), which I’ve summarized and countered below.  I do, however, want to make it clear that curating your makeup collection is about making you happier, not more miserable.  If you find yourself struggling, that’s okay; everyone’s journey is different and certain parts may be harder for some than others.  Maybe for you success is destashing one product–just make sure you’re putting in a conscious effort to make your collection work better for you.

For those where the mental block goes beyond just feeling like you wasted money but goes deeper and is more rooted in a fear of no longer being in the position of being able to afford products, consider decluttering as a way to remove the noise from what you have today but store the decluttered products in a safe place until you are able to move past that fear (to whatever degree you may be able to).

Decluttering is not about minimalism or capsule collections or aspiring to a specific aesthetic or size of a collection.  Anyone who takes what they have and adopts a minimalist lifestyle by the acquisition of more things is doing so from a place of privilege.  Adopting more mindful purchasing habits, being more aware of how and what we use in our collections, and having the willingness to accept that sometimes products don’t work for us or we shouldn’t have purchased something (so we can let go of it) are the goals.

“I already spent money on this, so I should have to use it because I wasted money on it!” If you have additional products that you could be using, there’s no reason to punish yourself for past mistakes. This is supposed to be a fun, creative outlet.  You want to learn from mistakes you’ve made in the past to make better decisions in the future; that’s what you should be taking away from bad purchases.

“What if I need this product-I’ve-used-once-and-doesn’t-fit-my-preferences-at -all someday?”  That excuse can work a few times, but it can’t be the excuse used for every single item you have and never use.  Is this someday a real, feasible event? Maybe you don’t love neutrals but are about to graduate school and will be entering a career that often requires neutrals you can grab at this excuse, but if you think teal eyeshadow looks awful on you, want to remove it every time you wear it, then what is this someday you’re looking for?  You want to realistic about potential changes, especially when it comes to personal preferences.

“I’ll regret it if I get rid of it!” Take everything you’re willing to part with but are afraid you’ll regret parting with and put it into a box.  Take that box and put it somewhere you rarely see, like the back of a closet or under a bed.  Leave it for at least a few weeks, and then think about whether you actually missed any of the products you put in it.

“The packaging is so pretty!”  If you find the design/packaging/presentation attractive, then it’s not makeup, it’s art. You bought 3D art, and art is meant to be enjoyed, e.g. be on display, not tucked in a drawer or bin or wherever so you better find a place to display it!

Step 3: Questions to Ask Before You Purchase

When adjusting purchasing habits, one of the keys is to be more diligent about the process before the purchase.  This is the time spent deliberating over the purchase, which may be subject to a number of questions, checklists, steps, and processes based on your individual needs and what works for you.  Here are some actions I like to take when making purchasing decisions, both big and small, that can be applied to beauty purchases but also purchasing in general:

Is it within my budget for beauty (or “fun” money) for the time period?

Creating a budget is an excellent tool to see where your money goes each month, as this helps see if you’re over-spending in a particular area while providing a better idea of cash inflows and outflows.  If you have the ability to do so, you can set a spending amount for a time period for a category, like $X per month allowed on makeup.   If you find it harder to reduce spending, you may find stricter rules and specific limits to be more useful than more arbitrary ones.

How would this purchase impact my financial goals?

I always find having a financial goal in mind helps to curb excess and unnecessary spending because I have a bigger picture in mind.  This might be something like taking a great vacation, paying off student loans, contributing to retirement, buying property, or any number of worthy goals.

I like having both short-term and long-term financial goals setup so that I have more immediate satisfaction of contributing to a short-term goal while also working towards a long-term goal.  For example, I try to contribute as much as I can to pre-tax retirement each year for my long-term goal of being able to retire early (which is really the goal of working because I want to, not because I have to).

How will I use this product? Where does it fit into my collection?

If you’re adding a product to what you already own, then ideally, it should be adding something of value. It should serve a purpose and be a product you expect to use and enjoy.  A lot of what I ask myself here are the same questions I ask about whether I should keep or destash a product: will I use it, how often will I use it, do I have anything similar to it (do I really think this is going to be better? why?), etc.

Have I done my research on it?

If you can find reviews, swatches, or even try it in person, you should be attempting to do so!  You might have to set aside some time to be more proactive finding reviewers that you trust and align with, or to filter and skim through dozens of consumer reviews on various retailer websites.  If it’s a brand new product, you’ll want to consider your history with the brand and their products, whether you’re comfortable purchasing blindly or if you’d really rather wait for some reviews.

Step 4: Track New Purchases Critically

If you thought the process stopped there, you’d be so wrong — that’s how products we don’t love and use accumulate!  Once you’ve decided to purchase something, the next step is to try it and see how it works for you.  This will allow you to see exactly how it will or will not work for your needs and within your collection of products.

If you’re fortunate enough to live in a region that allows returns or exchanges, returning a product that does not work for you, that was hopefully purchased mindfully (not everything works out!), in a timely manner is a good way to avoid accumulating products that do not work for you.  The ability to try and return is a nice-to-have, but it isn’t an excuse to buy products willy-nilly because you can return (as in beauty, most returned products are destroyed/thrown away/disposed of, not resold), which results in unnecessary waste.

If you keep the product, make sure you have a place to put it, as an organized stash leads the way to a more well-loved and well-used collection of products. If you’re keeping track of what you own, add it to your inventory. And enjoy!

Here are some other helpful posts:

• How-to Create New Shades with What You Own
• How-to Declutter Your Makeup Collection
• How-to Shop Your Stash
• How-to Use Temptalia to Save Money

How-to Create Your Makeup No Buy Rules

If you haven’t already, outline the “rules” of your no-buy, low-buy, or what exactly you’re reducing or limiting purchases of. You’ll want to determine what you plan to allow yourself to purchase, if anything, and under what circumstances. It’s your plan, so it can be as specific or as broad as you want to be, though I recommend trying to be less broad where it makes sense to make it easier to stick with the plan. Think about the length of time you want to commit to the plan; it might be an initial commitment of six months or a year or even just a month.

If you’ve tried a no-buy or low-buy, and it did not work out, perhaps the guidelines need some work; think about what rules worked and which ones didn’t and try to retrace why those rules didn’t work (perhaps too confining or perhaps too much too quickly). Here are a few suggestions:

• Replacement only: if and when a product that is well-loved and well-used is finished, it can be purchased again
• One-in, one-out: if and when a certain product is finished, something can be purchased to replace it (could be finishing a lipgloss and getting a lipstick)
• Fill in the Blanks: there are certain gaps in your stash, make note of them, and only if an item meets that need you have can it be purchased
• [Product Type] only: this could be skincare or haircare, basics, and often is related to replacement-only kind of low- or no-buys
• Set budget: determine the amount of money you’re allowed to spend per period (week, month, year), whether unused money can be rolled over, and so forth
• Planned purchases only: either purchases you’ve mapped out well in advance of starting the low- or no-buy (e.g. “that palette releasing in December”) or if you’ve thoroughly researched a product, determined it fits within your guidelines, and so forth
• Project Pan: purchases can’t be made until certain items, a certain number of items, etc. have been used up (panning, de-tubing, etc.)

Unless there is a dire financial situation, try to set reasonable guidelines; it is better to start off with a more moderate low-buy and succeed than go cold turkey and fail within a week.

Create + Focus on Your Goals

There’s usually some reason why one consciously changes how and what they’re purchasing. When you created your guidelines, you may have set goals, or you may have a goal in mind that has set off the need for reducing your beauty purchases. This could range from shifting your money to something different (e.g. buying a house, paying down debt, taking a vacation) to feeling overwhelmed by what you own to curbing impulse buys to simply wanting to spend less when it comes to beauty products. Whatever your goal may be, when you’re tempted, think about the goal you’re trying to achieve, look at the progress you’ve made, and reaffirm why that goal is a priority for you.

Here are some suggestions on keeping your eye on the prize:

• Track expenses: go back and track how much you spent prior to your new plan, and then track what you’ve spent (or not spent!) since
• Track progress: whenever possible, tracking and being able to reflect on the progress made toward a goal is useful and can make a goal seem a lot more tangible and doable
• Track usage: go through and inventory your collection (you can even use our vanity system!), see what you’re using (or not using), see how often you use certain things, and it can help make the driving force behind the need for a low- or no-buy clearer
• Find support: let friends and family know about your goals and ask for support; look for online communities like /r/MakeupRehab with like-minded individuals

How to Stop Buying Makeup – 5 Steps

To be successful at reducing purchases, especially when making significant reductions, is to think more critically about your purchasing habits and what purchases you actually make and why. We don’t want to buy things on a whim any more; we want to buy products that fit our guidelines and are, ultimately, going to be products we love and use often. Are you READY?

• Research: Thoroughly read/watch reviews, look for swatches, learn more about the brand/formulation
• Explain: Why do you want this product? What need will it fill? Why is it tempting? Why now?
• Apply: How does it fit into your plan? How will it affect your progress? How does it fit into your collection? How often will you use it?
• Dupes: Do you have similar shades or something that is functionally the same?
• You: Will it make you happy or will it make you feel guilty? Will the happiness be from the acquisition or from actually using the product?

How to Resist Buying Makeup – 9 Tips

1. Unsubscribe from as many mailing lists as you can; these brands exist to sell to you, and some brands are particularly aggressive with daily emails, talk of FOMO, etc.
2. Make an inventory of all the products you own. It is helpful to know what you have, but it may also give you greater insight into what you have too many of (for you), products you seem to gravitate toward (and ones you can’t remember ever using).
3. Shop your stash for dupes or layering combinations to recreate whatever shade it was that made you feel tempted. You would be surprised just how far the art of layering can go to getting you close enough to just about any shade.
   • If you’ve made your inventory using Temptalia, you can view dupes in your vanity but also dupes between what you own and what’s on your wishlist, too!
4. Get through the clutter in your stash. I’m a big believer in destashing products you don’t like or don’t work for you; unless it’s truly necessary, sometimes recycling, trashing, or passing on to someone who would enjoy it more is far better than using it up. You paid for it already; you are not saving money by using it if you have something else you’d rather use. Do you know how long it takes to finish most color cosmetics? There’s little need to own 10 coral blushes and keep four you never use because you have six still to use! By removing the “noise” in your collection, it’ll let you appreciate and enjoy what you have more thoroughly–no wading through mediocre products, no more trying to use them just to say you did.
5. Save it for later, whether that’s to a real or mentalwish list and revisit in a week, two weeks, etc. and see if the pull of temptation is really there or was it just a knee-jerk reaction.
6. Try to avoid emotional shopping because you aren’t in the right headspace to do so thoughtfully. If you’re having a bad day, week, or month, try to find different ways to bring a smile to your face (watch a sappy movie, spend time with friends/family/pets, do your makeup instead, look at your progress, exercise, etc.) rather than simply buying something new and shiny. New and shiny lasts about as long as it takes to open the box.
7. Read reviews, look for swatches, and watch tutorials of products you’re interested in. Reviews can indicate whether it’ll even be worth acquiring, while watching tutorials can show you how something can come together (or not) and often show that, “Yeah, I can create that look with what I have” rather than, “Wow, that’s different than any other look I’ve ever, ever seen!!”
8. Accept any weaknesses and make adjustments. If it’s hard for you to physically go into a Sephora without making a purchase, avoid going to Ulta until you’ve made more progress toward your goal. Change doesn’t have to happen overnight!
9. If a sample is available of a product, see if that helps curb the need for it; you can try it without buying it, which will give you more hands-on experience using it. This could be an actual, deluxe-sized sample or just going to a counter and swatching (but maybe leave your form of payment at home to avoid impulse buying!).

5 Reasons to Skip Value Sets + Kits

1. You aren’t going to use everything in that set/palette.  10 lipsticks at a steal of a price, but if you’re only going to use two of them, that’s not really worth it, is it?
2. Why are you trying something you had no interest in before?  Just because it’s a good value or it’s on sale doesn’t mean you need it.  If you weren’t interested in it at full price, is it really something to be considering?
3. Limited edition is here today, gone tomorrow but repeated forever.  After awhile, a lot of the holiday sets and palettes start looking the same, especially by certain brands.  If you can’t partake this year to meet your goals, there’s always next year, and frankly, at the rate the industry is going, spring and summer and fall are going to turn into release bonanzas anyway.
4. The quality isn’t always the same in holiday sets as in full-sized products.  Again, even if it’s “cheaper,” is it really worth buying when the quality is lower? Why would you want a medicore or so-so product in your collection? There are so many excellent products that there’s no reason to settle for so-so!
5. You can dupe it.  No, seriously, do you know how many dupes I pull for most products?  It’s getting to be obscene.  A 15-pan palette might result in adding 500+ dupes to the database.  And if you can’t dupe it, maybe there’s a reason why you don’t already own something like it (e.g. doesn’t work for you, not practical, etc.).  Always check our Dupe List!  You can also compare two palettes to see similar shades (or even dupes).

Keep Going! Forgive Yourself for Mistakes.

If you purchase something that wasn’t part of your plan, don’t give up on your low- or no-buy. Be kind to yourself by thinking about what happened, what you can learn from it, whether there should be adjustments made to your guidelines/plan/goals, and how to do better in the future. You want to avoid making the same mistakes over and over again, so the focus should be on how to improve and move forward.

Have you tried a low- or no-buy? How did it go? Do you have any advice to share?

Last week, we chatted about “what makes you leave a review on a product” and “what research do you do before purchasing” and it made me think about a few things with respect to product reviews (in beauty space, of course).

The way I approach reviews is an attempt to be more objective, and it’s also in the capacity as… well, a professional reviewer, so I’ve tried to provide insight onto what makes reviews helpful and how consumers can leave better reviews but have tried to make the process as approachable as possible.  My biggest tip in writing a review is asking yourself what you wished you had known about the product before purchasing (or for products like it) and answering that question!

Consumer reviews are powerful, and seeing how a breadth of people like or dislike a product (and why) is extremely helpful to other consumers looking a potential purchase.  There’s a reason why brands have tried to game the system by flooding with early reviews or having employees write reviews (on the sly) — word of mouth can be a huge driver of sales!

Obviously, I very much encourage readers to leave reviews on products here on Temptalia, which was built to include reader reviews. I know we don’t edit or remove reviews because they are “negative” or mention a competitor product or whatever inane nonsense retailers use to reject reviews!   A great way to start is by building your vanity (if you don’t already have one), which is a way to track products you own, and then writing reviews for the products you own!

Pro tip: If you want to leave a review on a retailer or brand website, I recommend saving a copy of your review somewhere, just in case they remove it (then perhaps, share it on more review-oriented website that is less likely to remove reviews).

Tell Us About You

In one or two sentences, giving some information about yourself and your preferences for a particular product helps set the tone and signals to others who might find your review helpful.

Here are some examples:

• I have drier skin with some noticeable flaking on my cheeks, so I’m always looking for a foundation that won’t emphasize dryness.
• I have warm undertones and a medium skin tone, so the description of “vivid orange red” was right up my alley.
• My lips are dry and flaky, so I need a hydrating formula that is forgiving when I apply it.
• I speak all day long, so I really need a lip color that lasts all day and doesn’t get on my teeth.
• My eyelids are really oily and need a primer that I can count on to prevent creasing and fading during my 10-hour work day.
• I live in a humid climate where a lot of products can’t stand up to the heat and humidity, even when I’m using primer and setting my products.

Don’t Forget to Disclose

If you have something to disclose, please make sure you do it!  Transparency is critical in providing useful reviews and improving one’s credibility as a reviewer.  Disclosure can range from whether you have any ties to the brand, received a product sample, have a referral code/link, etc.

Share Your Expectations

What were you hoping this product would do? What was it supposed to solve?  What were you hoping it would add to your collection?  Some products will have deeper explanations than others; it’s not like anyone expects an in-depth explanation of one’s 10th red lipstick purchase ?

Pro-tip: Know What You’re Purchasing

There are a few caveats to a great review, and one of them is knowing what you’re purchasing.  If you’ve purchased a full-coverage foundation when you wanted a sheer foundation and then write a review that criticizes it for being full-coverage, that doesn’t end up being as helpful as it could be.  It’s not that you can’t review it–you might have a preference but doesn’t mean you can’t share how it applied, felt, lasted–but if the only reason you dislike it is for one of its marketed features, it didn’t actually earn that low-rating (and can skew the product’s rating in general).

Examples:

• I’ve been looking for a buildable coverage foundation that is easy to apply and lasts for at least 10 hours.
• My lids have uneven color, and I need really opaque eyeshadow so that the color remains true.
• I’ve been looking for a one-and-done, sparkly eyeshadow for quick looks.
• I love the look of sparkly eyeshadow but can’t handle fallout due to wearing contacts, so I’m always looking for the one that stays in place!
• I can be heavy handed, so I want to be able to build up coverage or something that’s very blendable in case I overdo it!

Share Your Experience

Each person’s experience is their own; other people having better or worse experiences with a product do not negate anyone else’s.  This is why I always invite readers to share their own experiences with a product, especially when it runs contrary to mine, and I’m always happy for those who have better experiences (and sad for those who have worse ones!) but believe what they say is reflective of their experience with that product.

This is all about how you used the product, how it performed, and ultimately, how satisfied you were with the performance.  I like to approach this part of the review with sharing how well it performed, then diving into application and troubleshooting (as applicable).

Here are some questions you might want to try to answer or use to structure your review:

• How did it perform? Did it perform well? Was it just okay? Worth the purchase or waste of money?
• How did you apply it? How did it apply? What technique(s) did you use or what was the best for application?
• Was it easy to work with? Did you have to troubleshoot?
• Were there any deal-breakers?
• What did you like/dislike? What do you wish it did/had? Anything you would you change?
• How did it last/wear/feel?
• How long did you use it for? (often more important for categories like hair care, skin care, etc.)
• Did you try it with other products? (e.g. primer, setting powder, etc.)

Examples:

• I had no trouble applying this with my dampened sponge.
• It went on evenly and didn’t settle into fine lines.
• I had time to smudge out the edges before it set into place.
• It applied unevenly, and I could not get the product to blend out.
• I tried using my favorite brush and my fingertips, but nothing seemed to work well with this product.
• It applied beautifully in the morning but looked faded and uneven by the time I took my lunch break.
• It had such a heavy scent that gave me a headache that I wouldn’t use this again, even though it was really nice in other ways.
• I loved the way the color applied evenly, but the formula was too drying for my lips.
• It was supposed to have a matte finish but had noticeable shine.

Bonus Points: Describe the Product

Describing the product often comes as a review goes through expectations and the experience, but it’s a good idea to keep it in mind when talking about a product. This is particularly useful when talking about things that can be hard to tell from a promotional image.  For skincare, that might be something like dry down, texture, scent, and so on.  For a lipstick, that might be the color, undertone, texture, and so on (and very useful to know when something differs substantially from how the brand photographed or described it!).

Examples of things to consider:

• Color, undertone, coverage
• Texture, consistency, feel, dry down
• Scent, taste
• Packaging, delivery mechanism

Rate the Performance

Most reviews include a written portion as well as a rating portion, where you indicate how many stars or points you’d give it on a scale.  I highly recommend rating based on product performance rather than more arbitrary characteristics that are inherently very personal but don’t actually mean it’s a “bad” product.

The best way to think about it is if someone else was just looking to purchase this product but had very different coloring, skin type, hair type, etc. from you, could they still get value out of what you’ve written?

Examples:

• Color doesn’t flatter your skin tone/undertone: stating this is helpful as part of a written review but others could use your review to determine whether that shade is worth purchasing because it has a good formula! Don’t be the “wrong shade, one star” person!
• You prefer high pigmentation but it is a product that’s intended to be sheer: this goes back to knowing what you’re purchasing; someone who is looking at a sheer product probably wants it to be sheer, so seeing 1-star ratings for its sheerness makes it difficult to use those reviews.

What About Value?

I’ve always found information regarding whether a product is “worth it” interesting to read, but it’s a very, very subjective thing.  There are some who can’t imagine spending $50 on a lipstick that doesn’t also do their taxes, while others purchase $50 lipsticks routinely.  Here are some ways to speak on value–price and size–in more meaningful ways:

• I splurged on this product, but I didn’t feel like it performed better than other products at half the price!
• It felt like a lot of the cost was for the packaging but not the product performance.
• It was half the size of other blushes I own but double the cost!
• It was expensive, but it was worth it to me because it __________.
• I didn’t mind that the size was smaller because it was cheaper than the full-size, and it takes me awhile to get through a product!
• There was so much product, but I wish it had less product and wasn’t as expensive because a little goes a long way.

I’m of the mindset that people know their budget best and have the ability to determine whether a product fits that budget or not. My experience reviewing products has shown over and over again that price doesn’t indicate a certain level of quality, but speaking on it can sometimes give insight that might be harder to judge without the product in hand.

We offer quick reviews as well as written reviews. I know everyone has limited time, so sometimes just an overview of pros/cons paints a picture with enough data.

Reader Reviews appear on all product pages!

You can review products from your Vanity easily!

We offer quick reviews as well as written reviews. I know everyone has limited time, so sometimes just an overview of pros/cons paints a picture with enough data.

Reader Reviews appear on all product pages!

You can review products from your Vanity easily!

I previously shared how the language of the beauty needs to change, and I also detailed areas where complexion products could use further improvement or “next steps” to go beyond just offering 40 shades in a single formula.

First, here are some changes to look out for (and hold brands and retailers accountable for) based on commitments made this week:

L’Oreal has finally issued an apology to Munroe Bergdorf, and now, we will see her take a seat on L’Oreal UK’s Diversity and Inclusion Advisory Board to advocate for Black, trans, and queer voices in the beauty industry.  They also donated €50,000 to Mermaids Gender and UK Black Pride.

Glossier issued one of the strongest responses with an initial $500,000 donation across organizations fighting against racial injustice, but they will also allocate $500,000 available as grants to Black-owned beauty businesses (which they’ll provide more details on this month). The latter will go a long way to long-term, ongoing change.

Anastasia is also committing $1 million with an initial $100,000 donation and is working on specific initiatives to “support Black-owned businesses and artists in the beauty industry” going forward. ColourPop has donated $50,000 and will donate an additional $250,000 going forward.  There are many beauty brands who have made unspecified donations and donations from $5,000 to $50,000, so I’ve only called out some of the higher donation amounts.

Violet Grey has committed to stocking all shades in the complexion products they stock on their website, rather than a curated shade range (sometimes as ridiculous as 5 of 15 shades available).  This morning, SpaceNK said they’ll only provide testers for brands that have all shades displayed, and those who have a more edited display will have samples upon request for all shades.  What I like about SpaceNK’s decision is that it acknowledges how important accessibility is, especially in-store, to be able to see and try your shades.

Sharon Chuter, founder of UOMA Beauty, started #pulluporshutup (documented for easy access @pullupforchange) to push brands to share where they are today so that the community can hold them accountable going forward in a more transparent way. #pulluporshutup is less of a “gotcha” moment as it is a more measurable way to hold brands accountable, despite percentages only telling a partial story–how brands treat their BIPOC employees, the types of policies they have, whether there are glass ceilings for BIPOC, etc. are all more important than having “good” numbers.

Here’s why Sharon created this campaign, from an interview with Essence:

“I want to make it clear that this isn’t about bullying brands, it’s not an exercise in naming and shaming. This is a wake-up call. It’s saying, there is a problem,” she continues. “Thank you for your monetary donations, but we have to go back to the root cause, we have to go back and look at the overall system of oppression that has lasted for 400 years. We have to be cognizant of that. For the first time the world is listening, people are partnering with us at mass—we have the opportunity to make a long term change for future generations.”

A lot of the brands that “pulled up” shared their plans to create a more diverse workforce.  This has ranged from putting together diversity councils/boards, consulting with diversity experts on corporate policies (like recruitment, training, etc.), investing in internships and mentorships.  Brands that already wanted a diverse workforce but have not yet achieved it, they’ll need to dive into why and look into the hiring process, where they’re recruiting from, and if there are biases within corporate culture that they need to address.

Here’s how Sharon sees phase two of Pull Up or Shut Up, from an interview with Cosmopolitan:

“My push for phase two is that we need to set up independent diversity boards made of all people of marginalized groups,” says Chuter. “They will be charged with implementing true policies for change, documenting this, working with the companies to ensure their staffs are diverse and that those people are protected.”

Suggestions for Change

Here are four ways brands could do better going forward that would be effective with what I’d expect is “little” effort compared to implementing long-term policies that address the system beauty operates in.  These are on top of my suggestions for how complexion still needs to change.

Improve product diversity at all levels.

This means going beyond more inclusive shade ranges in foundation and concealer.  It means that offering one highlighter or one bronzer shade is not enough.  Too Much Mouth has a recent follow-up video on the latest bronzer releases and how they appear on deeper skin, which comes a few months after a prior update on the state of “bronzers for dark skin.”  Nyma Tang also has an excellent video on products from 2019 that failed POC.

Examples:

• Benefit Box o’ Blushes — very light-leaning range, but that’s been Benefit’s MO for a long time
• Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow — needs more than two variations
• Clinique Flower Pop Bronzer/Highlighter — one light shade for each formula
• Hourglass Ambient Lighting Bronzer — four shades that are light to medium in depth
• ILIA Nightlite Bronzing Powder — two shades, neither are deeper
• L’Oreal True Match Lumi Bronze It — three shades, all in the light to mid-tone depth (“Deep” is not very deep)
• Lilah B. Bronzed Beauty — one shade
• MAC Next to Nothing Bronzing Powders — limited edition formula but a pattern where MAC launches a light and more medium bronzer shades but rarely anything deep (their regular range is lacking in depth as well)
• Marc Jacobs Glow Stick Illuminator — a lot of readers love it, but it only comes in one shade
• Marc Jacobs O!Mega Bronzer — three shades but all are on the lighter side
• Natasha Denona Mini Bronze & Glow — one shade of bronzer for all (plus, brand’s swatches are so off)
• Tarte Amazonian Clay Bronzer — two shades, neither are deeper
• Tom Ford Soleil Glow Bronzer — more golden and more redder light-medium options but lacking in depths (same for the regular line)
• Urban Decay Beached Bronzer — two shades, neither are deep

There are some brands who have better than average ranges, and categories like bronzer have seen definite improvements in the last two years but many brands have not seen fit to expand there.  “Better” is really relative to how short most ranges are, though, in most cases below.

Examples:

• Anastasia Bronzer — six shades (I haven’t seen them in person)
• Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Highlighters — 12? or more permanent shades
• Becca Sunlit Bronzer — five shades; room for deeper depths
• Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter — 7 shades, and it is the type of product I really wouldn’t have expected to have that many shades (but it could go cooler and deeper as a whole)
• Fenty Beauty Freestyle Cream Bronzer — 7 shades but a mix of bronzer + contour shades, could use more shades for both
• Fenty Beauty Killawatt Highlighters — several duos + singles
• Fenty Beauty Sun Stalk’r Instant Warmth Bronzer — 7 shades, but I heard several Black YouTubers mention that it didn’t go as deep or as inclusive as they had hoped (see Nyma Tang try it here)
• Kosas Color & Light Palettes — offering a low and high intensity version of each duo so the “story” works on more skin tones
• Kosas Sun Show Baked Bronzer — has one of the deeper bronzers available at Sephora (but only three shades in total)
• MAC Powder Blush — a range that has had shades that work across skin tones and undertones for as long as I can remember
• Make Up For Ever Artist Face Color — extensive range of blushes (could be expanded for highlighter/bronzer/contour)
• NARS Blush Powder — like MAC, it’s also a range with a variety of depths and undertones that serve a variety of complexions
• NARS Bronzing Powder / NARS Matte Bronzing Powder — four shades but has room for improvement

More Inclusive Color Stories

Brands can still release shades that work better on lighter complexions, but it’s about pushing brands to ensure that they’re creating products that fit a color story that works on darker complexions.  If you take a critical eye to a lot of the limited edition color collections that launch, they tend to hover around more of a light to light-medium skin tone depth–that’s often who they’re “most” for so those with medium and deeper skin tones are more often “making them work” rather than having the collection work for them.

This is seen readily through cheek colors launched–like launching a single blush or highlighter–along with eyeshadow palettes where several shades are nearly unusable for deeper complexions.  There are several brands that will launch two cheek colors in a collection but often they’ll be very similar in depth, where it would be more useful to offer two shades with differing depths.

Examples:

• Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk extensions — Charlotte Tilbury released “deeper” versions of cult favorite Pillow Talk, but the eyeshadow palette was released as just one variety (which skewed lighter)
• Clinique Cheek Pop Palettes — lack of depth
• ColourPop x Mulan / Making Mauves — two cheek colors but neither providing an option for deeper complexions
• MAC Bronze Collection — two bronzers, lacking depth (remainder of collection had good variety!)
• NARS Cool Crush — one-size-fits all cheek palette, eye palette that has a lot of light/mid-tone shades
• Natasha Denona Tan Bronze & Glow Palette — one size-fits-all highlighter/bronzer palette; something that could benefit from having at least a lighter and deeper option (in a dream world, I’d say three or four would be quite lovely)

Here are some products that have done well with readers, period, but have seemed to work well for medium and deeper complexions with less work…

• Anastasia x Jackie Aina Palette — Jackie designed this specifically for deeper complexions
• ColourPop 9-Pan Palettes — a lot of the 9-pan monochromatic palettes tend to skip obvious, light beige highlighter shades, though there are pastels included (which YMMV for deeper complexions)
• Coloured Raine Palettes
• Huda Beauty Nude Obsessions Palettes — released in three depths (light, medium, rich)
• Melt Eyeshadow Palettes — a lot of them have no typical “brow bone” shade in some form of light beige and yet get hyped up every launch (quality is inconsistent, unfortunately)
• NARS Blush Extensions — 10 shades from lighter to deeper, more muted to vivid
• Natasha Denona 15-Pan Palettes — several palettes have more mid-depth and richer tones with less emphasis than average on very light shades
• Natasha Denona I Need a Nude Lipstick — 18 shades designed to offer a “nude” for a variety of skin tones (nude as a concept in action!)
• Natasha Denona Metropolis Palette
• Pat McGrath Mothership Palettes

Do Better with Themes & Names

From cultural appropriation to exoticization and/or fetishizing of people and places to racial slurs as names (g*psy still in use, though greatly reduced in the last five years) to the microaggressions like “nude” (when it means light beige) and gendered language.  If brands really create more diverse workforces and enact policies that support anti-racist policies in the workplace, I hope that we’ll see less brands make poor choices in collection themes and names.  But here are a few things that retailers and brands could do right now with little effort:

• Brands + retailers defining nude as a concept, not a color.  Rename shades that are “Nude” when they really mean beige–particularly in complexion ranges.  Renaming should also occur for other commonly used choices for beige shades: Natural, Flesh, Skin.
• Brands + retailers using gender-neutral language in product copy, marketing emails, etc.  These are often automated but pervasive yet greetings and copy can easily be edited to reflect gender-neutral language like they/them and people/person.
• Brands + retailers stop using and stocking products that use racist slurs, like g*psy.  We’re so close to this one.  Sephora has one product that shows up, and Ulta has five (two from NYX!). Nordstrom has 11 (most being Byredo’s G*psy Water). Beautylish has six.

Provide More Accurate Swatches on Real People

Look, I get that brands are going to edit and manipulate their promotional photos–including swatches–to show their products in the best light (literally and figuratively), but if you’re going to show swatches on multiple skin tones, then those should be real people getting photographed, not digitally darkened (or lightened) skin.

Many brands have taken editing so far that swatches from brands have are often as useless as hex-code base square “swatches” were 10 years ago.  What is the point of showing swatches on three skin tones if the brand has manipulated them to look the same on everyone (when they’re not)?  (I appreciate Clinique showing how un-bronzer-like their bronzer is on deeper skin tones, though how marketing saw that and didn’t go, “Whoa, whoa, wait a minute!”)

Viseart provides more realistic swatches that are still neater, like they did for Spritz Edit, which clearly showed a difference in how colors appeared on lighter and deeper skin tones.  On other hand, you have a more “indie” brand like Melt Cosmetics that releases promotional swatches that look painted on and appear the same on all three skin tones… what’s the point?  Natasha Denona has been criticized for similar behavior, especially with respect to the mini Bronze & Glow released (but you can see here how the Love Glow palette is quite different on deep skin).

The bar is pretty low, so something might be better than nothing, but for all those brands who said they were listening (apparently, all of the many suggestions from the last few decades must not be accessible to read or review!)… here are some ways brands can keep improving in the complexion space to start:

Retailers Need to Carry All Shades

If a retailer is going to carry a product range, they should carry all shades when it comes to addressing the needs of different skin tones. In beauty, given that a lot of consumers purchase through places like Sephora and Ulta, retailers often encourage or discourage brands from doing certain things.

It’s one thing for a brand to release 50 shades of lipstick and retailers to carry 20 that they think will resonate (presuming a good variety of shade depths and undertones) but totally appalling when a brand has 30 shades but a retailer elects to only carry 10 of them.

Update @ 6/5/2020 7:15PM PST: Violet Grey has announced, as part of their larger diversity commitments: “In addition, we commit to stocking all color complexion shades from our current brand partners and will focus on securing wider makeup shade ranges moving forward.”

Retailer Violet Grey makes curation a selling feature–but they do it even on foundation, concealer, and other VERY skin-tone dependent product ranges. Curating the types of products (this foundation formula over that one) or perhaps the top red shades in a lipstick formula may be of value… but the curation of skin-tone color products is baffling. In a timeline where many are advocating and pushing brands for greater shade ranges, and then they deliver, this seems like a retailer who is deliberately reducing shade ranges instead.

Violet Grey carries MAC Face & Body… MAC being one of the long-time leaders in inclusive shade ranges.  They carry 10 shades, while the range actually has 13… why are you dropping three shades? What shades did they drop?  N7, N9, and C7 — deeper ones, huh!  Violet Grey carries nine shades in Giorgio Armani’s Power Fabric Foundation (which is listed as a “new arrival” at the time of this post) when it is a 30-shade range; the deepest shade Violet Grey carries is 10, but the line goes all the way to 15.

I think one of the worst instances I’ve seen is that Violet Grey carries five shades (the deepest being 4.0) of YSL’s Touche Eclat Concealer, which is a range that YSL extended (it’s a cult favorite!) to 15 shades (deepest being 9.0).

I know Ulta carries only 40 shades from PUR’s range of 100, which is marginally more understandable.  On the flip side, Physicians Formula has long been known as having very short, limited shade ranges that favor lighter skin tones, but Ulta carries seven shades in their Silk Foundation, but there are actually 12 (which is by no means worthy of applause, of course!).  Ulta carries 14 out of 19 shades in Wet ‘n’ Wild’s Photo Focus Dewy Foundation; the missing shades are primarily in the tan/dark classifications (per the brand).

Update Existing Complexion Ranges, Too

I’m always surprised when a brand releases a new foundation with 30 or more shades but will often keep existing ranges the same. There are some brands that have revisited and extended existing ranges, which is a better approach and is actually acknowledging the need for more shades rather than trying to capitalize on having a “diverse” range for a new launch only.

This is especially true for brands that have struggled to have inclusive shade ranges; it would be so much stronger to take the time to extend the shade ranges of current formulas along with any newly-released ones.

Examples:

These are purely looking at number of shades offered, but please keep in mind that it is actually possible to offer 40 shades of poorly done depths and undertones, too, so sometimes more isn’t better.

Higher coverage formulas tend to require more shades due to level of opacity amplifying mismatching; sheerer formulas can have smaller shade ranges because they allow the natural color to come through more and so 40 shades may be unnecessary. This is not always true, though, and it really depends on the formula, finish, and how the shade range is distributed.

It’s more important that brands take care in creating a range of depths and undertones and evenly distributes those shades — 30 shades of light and light-medium and 10 shades of deep is still missing the point.

• Clinique Superpowder (six shades, only up to “Medium”) formulas were quite reduced compared to their liquid foundations (most having 25+ shades); Perfectly Real has 4x Very Fair, 4x Moderately Fair, 2x, Medium, and 1x Deep shades.
• L’Oreal has 40 shades in Infallible Fresh Wear and 38 shades in True Match, but there are only 12 shades in Infallible Pro-Glow and 15 shades of True Match Lumi (Ulta’s shade match recommendations provide six options for lightest skin tones but only two for deep skin tones).
• Maybelline finally extended Instant Age Rewind Concealer to 18 shades but their other top selling concealers have 12 shades, while Face Studio Master Concealer has five shades (the deepest being “Medium/Deep”).

I’ve noticed that a lot of the brands carried at Sephora have 20+ shades in a range, and the majority seem to be consistent across their ranges–not always the same but often reflective of coverage-level (so tinted moisturizers or sheer formulas have less than medium-to-full coverage formulas).

Travel-Sizes in More Shades

It’s always funny when a brand with 40 shades proceeds to offer travel-sizes or sample-sizes of two or three shades. Oh, that’s useful!

Recently, I saw that Tarte offered their Shape Tape in travel-size… across 30 shades, which is the full extend of the full-size range (though this isn’t the case with some of the other travel-sized complexion products, like Babassu Foundcealer, which offers six shades in travel-size–at least they were evenly split across depths–vs. 30 shades in the full-size range).  I’ve also seen NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer and Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizers offered in mini-sizes in the same shade range as full-size.

Here are a few that are missing the point:

• Benefit Hello Happy Foundation offers one, lonely mini in their lightest shade 1, at Sephora.
• Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk offers minis at Sephora, stops at 7.5 whereas full-range has 15 as the deepest shade.
• Urban Decay Stay Naked Concealer offers three shades in travel-size through their site in 20CP, 40NN, and 50CP — but the depths go all the way up to 90.

Improve Descriptions

Brands could help their customers so much more by providing specific descriptions of each shade by depth (lightest to deepest), undertone (not just warm vs. cool but is it pink, yellow, olive, neutral, red, peach, etc.), and strength of that undertone (“warm yellow” or “neutral, leaning warm” or “very pink”).  I have reached out to brands for specific shade descriptions and received the answer, “We don’t have any,” and surely, when the brand created and developed the shades, there was something written down with respect to what each shade was supposed to be…. no? There should be!

Stop Calling Shades Nude

Seriously, let’s leave “Nude” as a single shade name in 2020–why is any single foundation or concealer shade being called nude?   This is such an easy thing for consumers to do; as I mentioned previously, nude is a concept, not a color, so it as a shade name or a description doesn’t do an apt job of describing the depth or undertone of a product.  There are far too many brands who market certain types of products, say a range of lipsticks, and convey that they kind of understand that nude isn’t one color but then will have a shade called Nude something rather in their foundation range.

Maybe Try Numbers

Typically numbers go from low to high and represent light to deep in depth, and there are some brands who have flipped that and made the lowest numbered shade correspond with their deepest offering, so it doesn’t seem like the perfect solution but by and large, a lot of readers find a numbering system to offer greater insight in how shades are arranged in depth and enables brands to add-in undertone information pretty readily while side-stepping a naming minefield otherwise.  I mean, hey — MAC’s system still remains a way a lot of people identify their coloring!

Example:

• Pick a numerical range: 10 to 100 or 1 to 40 or 100 to 1000
• Create an undertone system:  use letters to convey undertone value, e.g. Y for Yellow or W for Warm (which is not quite an undertone; brands could be way more specific on what they’re trying to sell you given they created it!)

It’s probably a good call to leave room between shades so that shade extensions can be made as necessary, so 10, 20, 30, 40, etc. allows for 12, 26, 34 as necessary.  It’ll also save brands from the pitfalls of imbalance in the types of words they use for lighter vs. deeper shades as readers have pointed out… some really have no desire to be referred to as various foods.

Re-Think Fair

As a final note, I’ll say that we need to re-think the usage of fairest (and fair) when we really mean lightest. Fairest/fair has connotations linked to being beautiful (“who’s the fairest of them all?”) and justness, so being tied to very light skin gives us reason to scrutinize its usage more.

Today, I expect that we will update and rollout adjusted skin tone names to reflect that here on Temptalia such that Fairest is now Lightest and other adjustments were made to reflect that. Numbers still need descriptions, so using 1 for deepest or lightest would still require a description (like lightest, medium, deepest) to convey where that number was on the scale, so the step forward today is in adjusting the descriptors.

I want to thank readers who mentioned it on my editorial earlier this week (and also on social media), and I also want to thank my Discord readers who let me bounce naming ideas off of them to try and find a substitute for “fairest” and “fair” — because we already use “light.”

I’d also love to hear from readers and the larger community as to where you’d like to see additional improvement when it comes to complexion product offerings!

The language we use is important and has consequences.  Adjusting our language (or being aware of the impact of language) is a way we can reduce harm as individuals on an on-going basis. By being aware of how the word choices we make and whether there’s room for improvement, we really can make the beauty space more inclusive, respectful, and kinder.

Let’s Use Specific Descriptions

Is there any product that’s universally loved? Any?  Regardless of product category, price point, color, texture, or whatever, not everything works for everybody and that’s literally the point of having a billion brands and products released every year — something for everyone.  There are several examples of the language used under the guise of one-size-fits-all that need to change.

Nude is a concept, not a color.

The color of what is “nude” depends on who it is being applied to, and it really is a “me but better” kind of concept.  It’s the natural flush your skin makes when you blush, it’s your natural lip color but better, it’s your skin tone but more defined (through playing with light and dark).  A lot of brands use the word “nude” to describe something that is a shade of beige.  This is also done with words like flesh and skin.

It is infinitely more useful to describe something like, “This is my favorite nude [product type] on my [insert skin tone/coloring] because it enhances [color/undertone].” For me: This is my favorite nude lipstick on my light/light-medium, neutral-to-warm skin tone because it enhances the rosy undertones of my lips.  I’m so bothered by the word nude that I would rather say “my favorite lips-but-better lipstick is” than “my favorite nude is,” though.

Examples:

(Links go to product reviews, I’ve consciously not linked to any retailer in this post.)

• Anastasia Nude Matte Lipstick (“muted burnt orange”)
• beautyblender nude (beige sponge)
• Bobbi Brown Bare Art Stick (“flesh tone nude”)
• Charlotte Tilbury Iconic Nude Lip Pencil (it is rosy pink)
• ColourPop Island Time Lippie Tint (“sheer pinky nude”)
• Giorgio Armani Nude Smoke Eye Tint (“sand nude”)
• Hourglass Brilliant Nude Blush (“deep amber”)
• Hourglass Nude Vanish Foundation Stick (“light-medium, neutral undertone”)
• MAC Creme d’Nude Lipstick (“pale muted peach beige”)
• MAC Kid Eyeshadow (“fleshy nude”)
• MAC Painterly Paint Pot (“nude beige”) — all other shades are color descriptions
• MAC Showing Skin Lipglass (“light greyed pale nude”)
• Make Up For Ever Flesh Liquid Lipstick (“very light, cool, pinky beige”)
• Marc Jacobs Beauty Fantascene Palette — includes Flesh (which is a light pink-beige); palette described as “sensual nudes and shimmering pops”)
• Marc Jacobs Beauty Nude(ist) Fineliner (“peachy beige”)
• Marc Jacobs Beauty Skin Deep Lip Lacquer (“opaque taupe-mauve” — it is beige)
• NARS Belle du Jour Lipstick (“sheer nude beige”)
• Natasha Denona  Nude Mini Palette — includes Golden Flesh (“metallic gold”) / Harlow (“matte nude,” which is a light-medium, yellowy- taupe)
• Natasha Denona Star Palette — includes Flesh (“matte warm nude transition”), Polaris (“sheer golden nude”), Bellatrix (“metallic nude”), Atik (“matte medium transition nude”)
• Sephora Nude Blush Lip Stain (it is pink-beige)
• Sephora Warm Nude Lip Stain (it is peach)
• Tom Ford Flesh Matte Lipstick (it is beige)
• Tom Ford Nude Ivory Foundation Stick (light shade — 1.3)
• Too Faced Nude Born This Way Foundation (“very light with rosy undertones”)

Some of the brands above have more inclusive shade ranges in their foundation or concealer products, but even within those ranges, sometimes they still use Nude as if it is an actual color. Is the word “nude” really descriptive of a specific color or undertone or depth?  Would it not be better to describe it as “light beige, pink undertones” or “pale pink, neutral undertones” or “mid-tone brown, pink undertones” — would those descriptions not be more useful for everyone anyway?

A lot of times brands will be more descriptive for shades that might be “nude” in concept — NARS Belle du Jour is listed as “sheer nude beige,” but shades like Rosecliff (“satin soft rose”), Pigalle (“matte neutral pink chocolate”), Pour Tojours (“matte warm pink”), Tonka (“matte rose brown”) all get clearer descriptions but don’t use the word “nude.”

Some brands seem like they are trying to expand on what “nude” means, like Natasha Denona’s “I Need a Nude” Lipstick, which has 18 shades, or Pat McGrath having Flesh 3 / Flesh 5 under “Nudes” (along with several other shades) and neither are light beige.  Huda Beauty released three versions of their Nude Obsessions Palettes (Light, Medium, Rich).

Honestly, as customers, we would be so much better served by brands who were specific in their color descriptions across products. There are a lot of brands that use all sorts of names that indicate nothing about the color and don’t even bother to provide descriptions of colors, undertones, and/or finishes. Which is more useful to you as a consumer?

Description #1: Giggly Bot
or
Description #2: Giggly Bot, a light-medium green with muted, olive undertones, metallic finish.

Similarly, if you talk about products you love, whether as passing comments on forums or social media, or write reviews, whether on your own space or on a retailer, being more specific about how a color looks to you, on you, and what your characteristics are (that are relevant to that product type) goes a long way to making your recommendation/review have more value.

Universal? Far From It

The more aware you are of how different formulas, finishes, and colors work across skin tones, the more obvious it becomes that “universal” shouldn’t be used… but especially in context of color cosmetics.  Not only is it more useful to be descriptive and say, “This shade is so flattering on my [insert your skin tone, undertone, coloring details here] because it [does whatever]” than “This universal bronzer adds warmth to all skin tones!”

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palettes are loved by a lot, but they have routinely been harder-to-use or have completely left deeper skin tones out of it.  The original trio is described as “three universal shades,” when I know readers have mentioned this is not the case. Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze/Glow originally came in one shade (probably not bronzing on anyone beyond medium) and described it as universal (it’s still described this way but now has a second duo available).

I’ll give you this: something that’s clear–colorless–like a lip balm could have greater mass appeal and wearability regardless of skin tone (but it’s not going to work well universally!).

Not Everything is For You

If there’s one thing I’ve tried to really, really build and enforce in my community is a respect for each person’s individual preferences.  A lot of the products covered here are from mainstream brands, who likely dump tons of money into figuring out what their demographic will purchase, so when a color gets released, they had someone in mind who wanted it.

It’s important that when making commentary about a product, especially when it’s in regards to its color, to speak in a way that clearly gives it as a personal opinion on that color on you.  When someone says something like, “Who would wear this?” it puts boundaries on what is or isn’t acceptable, what is or isn’t the “norm.” It implies that there’s something wrong with those who would wear it.

This often occurs when a highlighter is released in a shade more geared toward deeper skin tones, say in a copper, and you might see a flood of comments like “how is that a highlighter?” It is a highlighter… just not for you.  You might approach it from a different perspective going forward: “It would be too dark for me, but it has a gorgeous finish!” or “I love the color, but I’d use it as a shimmery blush!” or you might refrain from commenting since it’s just not a product for you (it doesn’t need to be!).

This also applies to your preferences.  Share your preferences without casting judgment on other people’s preferences.  If you don’t like blue eyeshadow, then that new blue eyeshadow palette isn’t for you, and that’s okay, but it doesn’t mean that someone who wears it is wrong/different for loving it.  Saying “That’s only for Halloween” or “That’s clown makeup” are typical expressions whenever a color is released that is nontraditional.  Again, center your opinion of a color to yourself: “That color wouldn’t work for me!” or “I don’t know how I would use that in my routine!” or–I know it is hard sometimes–you don’t have to participate in that conversation.

(Seriously, have you ever seen how mocked 1-star reviews are when they effectively say “wrong shade, one star”?)

Need for Gender Neutral Language

The continued, prevalent use of female pronouns in beauty is dangerous and doesn’t acknowledge the diversity of the community.  This ranges from the assumption that people in the community are all female to how retailers divide the beauty category into male and female product categories, which is first and foremost, not acknowledging the full spectrum of gender identity but also supports the idea of makeup is for women, not for men.

If you go to Nordstrom, Beauty is a separate section, but “men” remains a section and under “men” you’ll find select beauty product types; if you browse sale products, “beauty” shows up under “Women.”  If you go to Sephora, there’s a “Men” section, which only includes fragrance, skincare, shaving, hair, etc. products. Beautylish is pretty much all-beauty, and they only segment by gender under “Fragrance.” Some beauty brands’ direct shopping sites don’t categorize under gender, like Bite Beauty and MAC, but some do, like Clinique.

I became much more aware of this when I had a male reader reach out and said he felt included for the first time because I used “they” instead of female pronouns, and he appreciated that he was just included. This was many years ago, and it has stayed with me, and as I’ve learned more about gender identity in the last few years, trying to ensure I use gender-neutral language is something I try to be more and more aware of.

Let’s Learn Together

These are some of the ways I’ve changed my language over time.  “Nude” is probably the hill I will die on when it comes to language used in beauty. I try to use the term “beauty enthusiasts” over “beauty addicts” as I don’t want to encourage shopping addictions or rampant consumerism. I also try to be very aware of when I say “need” over “want” for similar reasons.  I’m not a huge fan of the term “wearable” because I feel like it isn’t a neutral descriptor, so I’ve been using “nontraditional,” though I’m not fully satisfied with that either.

What are some ways language in beauty could be improved? I’d love to learn from readers as well!

How the Language of Beauty Needs to Change

How the Language of Beauty Needs to Change